How to Value Antiques

An antique's value depends on what it is, when and where it was made, who made it, how original it is and how much people want it today. Age alone is never enough. This guide walks through the clues experienced dealers use to answer each of those questions.

Last reviewed 2026-10-16 by the ValU team.

What counts as an antique

A common definition, used by US Customs for duty purposes, is that an antique is at least 100 years old. In everyday use, dealers also use the word vintage for items that are old but younger than that, often 20 to 99 years. These labels describe age, not value. Plenty of genuine antiques sell for modest sums, while some mid-century items sell for much more than older pieces.

Tastes change. Categories that were once in strong demand can soften as collecting habits shift, and others become fashionable. That is why recent sales are more reliable than old price guides or what a relative once paid.

Reading furniture construction

Furniture carries evidence of how and when it was made. Pull out a drawer and look at how the front and sides are joined. Hand-cut dovetails tend to be irregular, with fewer and narrower pins, while machine-cut dovetails are uniform. Look at the unfinished surfaces, such as drawer bottoms and backboards, for the marks of hand planes, straight saws or circular saws, each of which points toward a different period of manufacture.

Hardware offers more clues. Early handmade screws have irregular threads and off-center slots, while later machine-made screws are uniform. Replaced handles often leave extra holes or outlines. Wood should show consistent aging and wear in places where hands and feet would naturally touch it. Wear that is too even, or in places that would not get touched, can indicate artificial distressing.

Ceramics, glass and metalwork

Turn ceramics over. Many makers used printed, impressed or painted marks on the base, and those marks changed over time. Reference books and online databases of maker's marks can often narrow a mark down to a range of years. The word England on a piece, and later Made in England, is associated with export marking rules that took effect in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, which can help with dating, although it is not an exact rule.

Check ceramics and glass for chips, cracks, crazing, hairlines and restoration. Run a fingertip gently along rims and tap lightly: a cracked piece often sounds dull rather than ringing. Under ultraviolet light, many restorations fluoresce differently from the original glaze. For silver and other metals, hallmarks can identify the maker, the place and the date, as described in the jewelry guide.

Originality and condition

Collectors pay a premium for originality: original finish, original hardware, original parts and untouched surfaces. Refinishing furniture can significantly reduce its value to collectors, even if it looks better to a casual eye. Married pieces, where parts from different items have been combined, such as a top and base that did not start life together, are worth less than pieces that are all original.

Condition still matters. Damage, heavy repairs and missing parts reduce value, though the market is more forgiving for rare items than for common ones. Always disclose known repairs when selling.

Beware of reproductions

Reproductions are made for many reasons, and not all are deceptive. But reproductions are often sold as originals later in their lives. Common warning signs include marks that look too crisp, artificial aging that is uniform, modern screws or staples, inconsistent wear, and materials or techniques that did not exist when the item supposedly was made. See our guide to spotting fakes for a fuller checklist.

Provenance

Provenance is the documented history of an object: who owned it, where it was and when. Receipts, letters, photographs, exhibition records and auction catalogue entries can all support provenance and add value, sometimes substantially, especially when they connect an item to a notable person or collection. Family stories are interesting but are not provenance unless they can be documented.

Researching value

Search auction house archives and large marketplaces for completed sales of the same maker, form, period and condition. Pay attention to the type of sale. A price achieved at a major auction house with international bidders can be very different from one at a local estate auction. Retail prices at antique shops are asking prices that include the dealer's margin.

When you use ValU on an antique, photograph the whole object, any marks, the underside or back, construction details and any damage. The estimate gives you a range based on similar items that have sold, which is useful for deciding whether something deserves closer attention. For an item that could be significant, a qualified appraiser can examine it in person.

Common mistakes when valuing antiques

Regional differences can also matter. Some styles sell better in particular parts of the country or abroad, and very large pieces may sell better locally where buyers can collect them. When comparing sale results, consider where the item sold as well as what it sold for.

Photographing antiques for research

Good photos make research and remote opinions far more useful. Take a full view from the front, sides and back, then close-ups of marks, signatures, labels, joints, hardware and any damage. For furniture, photograph inside drawers and underneath. Use daylight or bright, diffuse light and avoid flash glare. Include a ruler or tape measure in one photo so the size is clear, and write down dimensions, since size alone often distinguishes one form or maker from another.

A quick checklist

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